Written by Michael Bray, May 17 2017

What’s been your favorite wine this year? Do you have one? The best wine I had this year was from a producer in Piedmont: 2006 Roagna Barbaresco Montefico. It was heavenly…extraordinary depth showcasing leather, tar, rose petals, mint, and oh yeah, there was the traditional fruit too, however mostly brown, like figs, dates and plums…with just enough acidity to leave you refreshed and excited for another sip. Throughout my ‘wine journey’ I can tell you that a large majority of my milestones and ‘aha moments’ were from drinking wine from Piedmont. The wines express a depth of soul and precision of elegance that is hard to beat. Thirsty yet? Ok, here goes…

Piedmont translates to “foot of the mountain.” This refers to the Alps and Apennines, which surround Piedmont on three of its sides. The farmers, producers and proprietors of Piedemont are serious about one thing: the Nebbiolo grape! Nebbiolo is believed to be derived from “nebbia,” meaning “fog” in Italian, referring to the intense fog that settles into Piedmont during harvest time.

You may be asking: “Why Piedmont and Nebbelio? What makes the combination so special?” Well, perhaps it’s the same reason why New Jersey is home to the best tomato’s?!

-      First, this grape variety won’t grow in many places in the world. Temperature needs to be moderate. In too cold an environment, the tannins won’t ripen and they will be extremely harsh. If it is too hot, the refreshing acidity won’t be retained and the wine will be out of balance.

-      Second, like Pinot Noir, it adapts to its “terroir” (the French word which loosely translates to ‘sanctity of place’).  Soil, sun exposure, altitude, and slope of the vineyard all create different expressions of this noble Italian grape in the finished wine. Again, think Jersey tomato’s and what about our “terroir” allows for such a successful product.

-      Third, the grape provides a lot of structure, which is helpful for aging in your cellar. Nebbiolo is high in tannin, acid, fruit concentration, and coloring matter, which all act as natural preservatives to allow your prized Barolo or Barbaresco to relinquish those aggressive tannins and harmonize with the wine, resulting in a softer, silkier texture. Over time, these wines go from fruity and floral to savory and seductive. Some of these wines can be cellared for over 50 years!

But, of course, if you don’t have that kind of time, you can always look for the wines marked “Langhe Rosso” or “Langhe Nebbiolo”, which will often be 100% Nebbiolo, or a blend of Nebbiolo and another local grape such as Barbera, which can be delightful in its own right. These Langhe wines will be more approachable in their youth with shorter fermentation and maceration times, as well as shorter oak aging for a fruitier, lighter experience with the Piedmont’s longest-lived grape variety.

But to be fair to Piedmont, there is life after Nebbiolo. Here are a few notable grapes producing some delicious everyday wines:

-      Barbera shows a versatility of styles from light, juicy, and vibrant to full, round, and soft. Ferraris Barbera d’Asti shows the lighter style, while Oddero’s Barbera d’Alba shows the fuller style with a kiss of oak aging. No matter which style you prefer, your tomato-based pasta and pizza dishes will be very happy to meet Barbera.

-      Dolcetto, known as "the little sweet one" is jammier than Barbera, lower in acidicty, and can be great with an antipasto platter. However, some examples give a peppery, savory characteristics allow it to stand up to richer dishes, such as stews and roasted meats. Pecchenino's "Siri d'Jermu" from the small commune of Dogliani is an outstanding choice.

-      While reds dominate Piedmont, let's not forget the white grapes! Arneis, known as the “little rascal”: can be difficult to grow. However, it is very aromatic, floral and fruity, and is a wonderful match with salads, lighter soups, and even spicy Asian cuisine. Matteo Correggia is a prime example of how good Arneis can be, made with all organic grapes.

-      Sparkling wines are produced here. While Asti is better-known, Brachetto is the frothier red cousin that can be just as sweet. Asti works best with fruit-based desserts, while Brachetto can be otherworldly with dark chocolate.

-      Vermouth is produced in Piedmont. Break out the gin and concoct your best classic martini, which was named after the best-known vermouth producer, Martini and Rossi…we would be thrilled to help you find the ingredients!

My hope is that this inspires you to drink Piedmont! If you’re out to eat, consider Café 2825, Dock’s Oyster House and Knife & Fork (all located in AC) or, Steve & Cookies (located in Margate). Lastly, be sure to pop into your favorite retailer and ask for the Piedmont section. For a great BYOB, try Velentina’s Trattoria Italiana in Northfield.

Lastly, have fun and drink passionately.