Written by David Setley

Drink Up!

Wines from Spain are one of the best values in the wine industry. While the quality continues to improve, the prices remain reasonable. Spain is most known for outstanding red wines such as Tempranillo from La Rioja and Garnacha from Catalonia. However, for this article, I’d like to focus on the great white wines produced in the Galicia wine region of Northern Spain.

In Spain, Denominaciones de Origen (D.O.), translated to Designation of Origin, are wine-growing regions classified as unique for their characteristics and quality. Galicia is a D.O. located in the far northwestern region of the Iberian Peninsula and is Spain’s most northern region, sitting directly above Portugal, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and north. The Galicia region is famous for the medieval pilgrimage trail: the Camino de Santiago, or the “Way of St. James.” This 500-mile trail begins in Saint Jean Pied de Port, France, winds through northern Spain and parts of Portugal, and ends at the grave of the Apostle Saint James the Great at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. Since the 9th century, pilgrims have made this month-long walking journey.

The maritime climate of the Galicia region plays a major role in the varietals of grapes that do well there. Often called “the Green Corner,” the region’s proximity to the Atlantic Ocean invites plenty of sun, cool breezes, high humidity, and fairly high amounts of annual rainfall. Winemaking began when Galicia and most of Europe were part of the Roman Empire. After the empire fell, winemaking was taken over by the Cistercian monks. Winemakers there still give credit to the monks for the quality of the vineyards and their grapevines. By the 14th century, the quality of Galicia’s wine was well-known, to the point where vine clippings were shared with countries throughout Europe. Wine production continued to thrive until the 19th century, when the nation fell into a serious depression. A significant number of winemakers emigrated to Portugal and South America to salvage their livelihoods, and many vineyards were abandoned. It wasn’t until 1986 and an influx of funding from the European Union that Galicia’s wine industry was restarted.

The overwhelming majority of grapes grown in the Galicia wine region are white, with Albariño being the most prolific by far, accounting for more than 50% of all grapes grown in the D.O. of Galicia. Albariño has a very thick skin, which serves it well in the humid environment of Rías Baixas, the subregion most known for growing this white grape. The thick skin helps the grape avoid mold and mildew rot that can be damaging to thinner-skinned varietals. The cool ocean breezes and the mild temperatures of the high-altitude vineyards in Rías Baixas prevent the grapes from overripening and result in the wine’s crisp, bright acidity. An outstanding example of a Rías Baixas Albariño is the La Cana Albariño. The wine is crisp and fresh, with fruit flavors dominated by tree fruit, such as white peaches, pears, slightly under-ripe green apple, and a touch of lime zest. There is a notable minerality to this wine, dominated by light sea mist, jasmine, honey, and ginger.

Another excellent demonstration of Albariño from Rías Baixas is Nora Albariño. This vineyard is located along the Miño, the great river running through Galicia. The wine is a beautiful balance of fruit and minerality with a rich and silky texture on the palate. Albariño is a wonderful pairing with fish, chicken, fresh vegetables, and sushi meals.

The second most-planted grape in the Galicia region is one you may be less familiar with: Godello, pronounced go-day-yo. The subregion of Valdeorras is most recognized for Godello. The Romans gave the area its name, which means “Valley of Gold.” Unlike Rías Baixas, Valdeorras is about 100 miles inland, with its vineyards located in the mountains. The subregion has one of the lowest average daily temperatures and lowest annual rainfall of any region in Spain. The soil is granite and slate, perfect for growing zesty white varietals. I highly recommend the Ladera Sagrada-Castelo do Papa Godello. Papa Godello is a perfect representation of the terroir, and the winery selects the best Godello grapes to produce the wine. The resulting wine is clean and well-balanced, with notes of melon, peach, and a touch of lemon. There is a persistent minerality that demonstrates the stony soil in which these grapes have grown. It goes well with grilled fish or poultry but is pretty versatile for a great many dishes.

I occasionally like to recommend a splurge-worthy wine. Ribeira Sacra, a subregion alongside the northwestern edge of Valdeorras, has recently been noticed for Godello. World-renowned winemaker Paul Hobbs has joined forces with Galician winemaker Antonio Lopez Fernández to create the Alvaredos-Hobbs Ribeira Sacra Godello. This wine is viticultural artistry at its finest. A delicately aromatic white wine, it displays layered notes of lavender, citrus blossom, and tangerine, with hints of white pepper. This dry, medium-bodied wine is beautifully balanced with layered flavors, bright acidity, and a lingering finish. Absolutely worth the splurge.

I hope you enjoyed this venture to the cooler side of Spain and consider giving the white wines of the country a try. You will not be disappointed. Reach out at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the Somers Point store if you have any questions or comments. Until next time, happy wining!

David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.