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Noteworthy Wines

Fri, Apr 04, 25
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Noteworthy Wines

Featured in New Jersey Lifestyle, written by Michael Bray, May 2 2022

A version of this article was published in the Shore Issue of NJ Lifestyle Magazine (publication date: 4/28/2022).

This time of year is a powerful reminder of how fortunate we are to call the New Jersey shore our home. The sun is bright, spirits are high, and it’s the perfect season to consider the best wines to enjoy with food and friends. This issue’s Community Q+A focuses on noteworthy wines from Italy and France, along with some insight on food pairings and suggestions of regions to explore. I’ve also included information on my favorite wines of the moment.

Please email me with your wine-related questions and I will use this column to provide answers. You can reach me any time at Michael@passionvines.com


Q: Paul S. from Ocean City asks, “What’s the difference between Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino?”

A: Hi, Paul! Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino are both made entirely from Sangiovese grapes grown in the village of Montalcino in Tuscany. The biggest difference between the two is their respective aging requirements. According to Italian wine regulations, Brunello di Montalcino wines must be aged a minimum of five years with at least two years in oak. Rosso di Montalcino wines must be aged at least one year, with no oak requirement. Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most highly regarded wines, with bold, well-developed fruit and earth flavors, and high levels of tannin and acidity that contribute to its superior longevity. Due to Brunello’s pedigree and extensive aging requirements, bottles range anywhere from $65 to $200+. Rosso di Montalcino can be considered Brunello’s younger sibling, offering a lighter, more fruit-driven, and more drinkable take on Brunello’s classic flavor profile and personality. With prices starting around $20, Rosso offers a delicious and approachable option for everyday drinking, while Brunello is an excellent candidate for cellar aging.


Q: Alisa B. from Margate asks, “I eat a lot of fish in the summer (mainly salmon and halibut), but I don’t drink white wine. What red wine would you recommend?”

Hi, Alisa! While we tend view white wine as a traditional partner for fish, a lot depends on the type of fish and the way in which it’s prepared. I’ve found that many red wines pair beautifully with a variety of fish dishes, but I typically avoid red wines with a high level of tannin (such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo) as these can overpower the fish. Additionally, if your meal includes citrus, the acidity of the fruit can clash with the acidity in the wine.

For a lean, mild fish like halibut, I recommend Barbera, a light to medium-bodied Italian wine with high acidity and low tannins. Scagliola Mati Piemonte Barbera 2017 (Piedmont, Italy, $14.99) is super aromatic and fruit driven. This would pair especially well with grilled or baked halibut with a tomato or fruit salsa. An oily, hearty fish like salmon serves as a good match for something a bit more tannic. For grilled or broiled salmon, you could try something bolder like a Rioja. These Tempranillo-based wines from Spain are medium to full-bodied with notes of fruit and touches of vanilla and toffee from oak aging. Cune Rioja Crianza 2017 (Rioja, Spain, $15.99) is flavorful with soft, well-integrated tannins that will stand up to salmon’s stronger flavor profile.

If you are dining in a restaurant with a more limited wine menu, you can’t go wrong with a Pinot Noir, especially from France’s Burgundy region.

 

Q: Michael F. from Avalon asks, “I tend to enjoy French Pinot Noir and Italian reds, mainly for their earthiness and food-friendly nature. I’m a creature of habit, so I’m hoping you can guide me to something new and equally delicious.”

Hi, Michael! I can tell from your go-to wine preferences that you enjoy the rustic, earth-driven qualities of Old World wines, and I would suggest exploring other European regions with deep culinary traditions. Spain offers a wonderful selection of wines of various textures and flavors that are exceptionally food friendly. Rioja’s Tempranillo-based wines offer a full-bodied rusticity that rivals Tuscany, and Garnacha is a great alternative to Barbera or Dolcetto. Try Hazaña Rioja Viñas Viejas 2019 (Rioja, Spain, $15.99), La Comarcal Delmore Tinto Valencia 2019 (Valencia, Spain, $22.99), and Bodegas Breca Old Vine Garnacha 2018 (Calatayud, Spain, $14.99). In terms of finding a good match for French Pinot Noir, I would recommend trying Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. These wines exhibit an elegance on par with many Pinot Noir wines from France’s renowned Burgundy region. Try Montinore Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2017 (Willamette Valley, Oregon, $29.99) and Lumos Pinot Noir 2019 (Willamette Valley, Oregon, $29.99)


What I’m Drinking & Why:

Jean-Jacques Vincent Pouilly-Fuisse Marie Antoinette 2018 (Brugundy, France, $26.49): This fresh, bright Chardonnay is fermented primarily in stainless steel, with only 25% of the wine seeing oak. The nose offers touches of stone fruit and vanilla, and the palate is vibrant with apple, peach, and refreshing acidity. Pair with sushi or goat cheese.

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino 2016 (Tuscany, Italy, $90.49): The 2016 vintage produced Brunello of excellent structure and elegance, with exceptional longevity. Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino 2016 is concentrated with aromas of dried cherry and leather and flavors of fruit, earth, and spice. It’s full-bodied with chewy tannins that will continue to soften over the next several years. I recommend cellaring until at least 2024.

Pol Roger Brut Rosé Champagne 2015 (Champagne, France, $141.99): This vintage offering from one of France’s best Champagne houses is comprised of a finely balanced blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The nose is full of red fruit and rose petals, and the palate is full-bodied and rich with notes of blood orange and raspberry. Pair it with grilled salmon or a fruit tart.

You keep asking, and I’ll keep writing.

Drink passionately, Michael Bray 

View the online version of the NJ Lifestyle Magazine spring issue on their website.

By Brittany Lane